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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.